(price $84.99)

A toasty and smoky nose freely reveals its aromas of black cherry, plum, violet and discreet earth wisps. The vibrant, delicious and attractively textured, if not especially dense, medium weight flavors possess a lovely sense of refinement while delivering fine length on the moderately austere bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This firm effort will need to develop better depth to merit the upper end of my projected range.